A clothing that survived the battle of time but never received its deserved glory, Hanfu is a gem in the traditional Asian fashion industry that paved the way for other similar dresses like Kimono and Hanbok (Korean Hanfu).
If we look at the Asian region in particular, Chinese culture is often overlooked and overshadowed by its neighbouring Japanese and Korean cultures.
The best thing about being a travel enthusiast and history buff is not always travelling, but having that constant curiosity to learn new cultures and their ways of life. Here's the story of Hanfu.
What is Hanfu?
The term "Hanfu" refers to the traditional dress of the Han people (206 BCE - 220 AD), which was the attire worn throughout Chinese history before the Qing Dynasty.
Hanfu is a long flowing robe with loose sleeves and a cinched waist worn with a decorative belt sash with a Jade or a purse attached to it. Hanfu is a very strong symbol of authentic Chinese culture, which was inspired by Confucian scholars.
However, Hanfu is a dynamic term that includes various clothing styles from different dynasties, reflecting the rich diversity of Chinese culture.
The Legendary Origins of Hanfu
Hanfu can be traced back more than 4,000 years to the time of the legendary Yellow Emperor Huangdi. Locals say that it was Emperor Huangdi's consort, Leizu who first weaved this clothing from silk. Taking the frequently changing weather conditions and periodic fashion into account, Hanfus were then designed to meet the needs of every citizen.
Evolution Through Dynasties: Types of Hanfu
Starting off in the Xia and Shang days, around 2070–1046 BC, Hanfu was a pretty basic top-bottom dress. Think knee-length tunics with sashes and narrow skirts, finished off with a knee apron called a "bixi". The colours leaned mostly towards red and green - that's all they could really develop back then.
In the Zhou Dynasty, between 1045 and 221 BC, clothes started symbolizing social status. The rich and noble flaunted snazzier Hanfus while regular folks kept it simple. This era also saw cool, one-piece clothes like the "Shenyi" pop up, and religious court dresses known as "Mianfu". And Hanfus started getting upgrades like wider sleeves, jade or sash accessories, and the debut of the cross-over collar.
Then, during the Qin and Han Dynasties (it's around this time the Dragon Boat Festival was introduced) from 221 BC to 220 AD, not much changed in the Hanfu style. "Shenyi" continued to stay popular among the Han and Huns. The "pao", a formal dress made of linen, became the new favourite.
Moving on to the Sui, Tang, and Song Dynasties (581–1279), it was a great time for Chinese culture and fashion! Women’s Hanfus got more relaxed and daring, breaking away from old-school Confucian rules. The Songs even added more bling and embroidery to their outfits, with women having "beizi", capes.
During Yuan Dynasty (1279–1368), Hanfu fashion was influenced by the Mongolian culture. Men kept their traditional "pao" but added the Mongolian "zhisunfu" to their wardrobe.
Then came the Ming Dynasty (1368–1644), making a step back to the Tang Dynasty style while keeping some Mongolian and Song influences. Women's fashion got a bit more on the conservative side due to a Confucian comeback. Tops got shorter, bottoms got longer, and outer coats kept everything modest.
During the Qing Dynasty (1644–1912), the Manchu leaders stepped in and initially made everyone wear their long gown, the "cheongsam". This rule loosened up eventually, leading to a fashion blend of Hanfu, Manchu, and some Western styles from the late Qing period.
Hanfu's Influence in East Asia
Hanfu wasn't just a big deal in China; it actually set trends across other Asian countries too! Take the Japanese kimono, the Korean hanbok, and the Vietnamese Áo giao lĩnh, for example – they all took a page out of China’s fashion book. Notable, the Japanese started embracing Chinese styles way back in the 5th century, and that’s how the iconic kimono came into existence.
As the image shown above, Hanfu is more of a relaxed, flowing silk while Kimono is more firm and uptight. Both these are uniquely beautiful, but they are not the same.
The Hanbok is very similar to the Hanfu but they both are significant to their own countries. However, it is commonly understood that the Hanbok is a fashion derivation from the ancient Han people of China.
Is Hanfu Gender Neutral?
Yes, both men and women wore Hanfu, which consisted of "yi" (衣, upper garment) with sleeves and a skirt-like "shang" (裳, lower garment).
If you watch a lot of period Chinese dramas, you'd come across Hanfus more often but note that those may be slightly exaggerated to meet modern fashion trends. The traditional Hanfu for women consists of a flowing upper garment with a long loose skirt. It allows no openings to reveal skin, especially the chest area.
The Hanfu for male folk is a cross-collar robe also known as Beizi which is worn over inner clothing and loose pants underneath.
Where to buy Hanfu?
If you live outside of China, there's almost no way of buying a Hanfu from a random clothing shop. You may be able to get the necessary material from silk stores in Chinatown, but the most convenient way would be online.
Buying Hanfu online is pretty convenient. However, make sure you get your measurements right before you purchase, and don't forget to check reviews.
What is a Qipao?
Wondering about the difference between Hanfu and Qipao? Qipao or Cheongsam is a tight-fitting dress from the 1920s, famous in 1930s Shanghai, with a straight cut, high collar, and side slits, embodying elegance. It evolved from Manchu styles to a symbol of Chinese fashion, worn at formal events and weddings.
Qipao isn't a "Qun Gua", the traditional wedding outfit from Southern China, featuring a loose jacket and embroidered silk skirt, symbolizing joy and fertility, often passed down as a family treasure. Although both Hanfu and Qipao are iconic, Qipao is a modern take on the traditional Hanfu, with designers constantly updating its look.
If you're living outside of Asia, Qipao is what you'd be most familiar with, when it comes to traditional Chinese clothing.
Why do the Chinese wear Hanfu?
For many Chinese, slipping into a Hanfu is like wrapping themselves in layers of rich Chinese history and culture. It's a way to wear their heritage on their sleeves, quite literally, showcasing a deep sense of pride and connection to the traditions that have been woven through the fabric of Chinese society over centuries.
And to some, Hanfu isn't just clothing; it's wearable art, a fashion statement that stands out from the crowd and turns heads with its unique and timeless style. Those Douyuin videos of Hanfu street fashion are just mindblowing.
Then, there are those who find a sense of community and belonging. It's more than just dressing up; it's about being part of a tribe, a community of Hanfu enthusiasts who come together, online and offline, to swap stories, share knowledge, and revel in the shared love for this iconic style.
Can non-Chinese wear Hanfu?
Of course! It's not considered disrespectful for a foreigner to wear their traditional clothing. In fact, if you're a foreigner in China wearing a Hanfu, you'll receive a lot of praise. Many people will want to take pictures with you. Just remember to respect the culture while wearing a Hanfu. This could be the style of tying the strings, or if there's too much skin, wear a Hanfu coat over it.
How to Wear Authentic Female Hanfu
The regular Hanfu consists of 3 inner layers primarily and more parts that come as accessories.
Zhongyi undershirt
Dudou - the underskirt
The Inner dress (Qu Ju and Shenyi)
The accessories are belts, headpieces, extra fabrics, jewellery and a thick Hanfu.
What most of us see in Cdramas is the Tang Dynasty Hanfu which is a fashionable take on the traditional one. Here's how you wear the Han Dynasty Hanfu which is considered more authentic:
Step 1 - Wear the Qu Ju (lower garment).
Step 2 - Wear the Shenyi (upper garment). Take the tie from the right side and tighten it on the left inner side, then tie it again from the outside, securing it on the left. Now bring the left side flap to the right and tie it on the outer side, securing it on the right. It should look like a crossover by now.
Step 3 - Take the skirt and wrap it around your waist until you find the tie in the middle. Tie it here first, then wrap the remaining skirt around and tie it again at the end.
Step 4 - Put on the Hanfu robe, similar to how you wore the Shenyi, but instead of tying the left side onto the right, wrap the fabric around your body and tie it. You can add a belt to make it look more attractive.
Here's a better visual representation of the technique - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s1BDvRuEgSM
What is your reason to wear a Hanfu? Leave a comment below.